(trials & tribulations of restaurant wine professionals in other restaurants)
When the nose knows, when the palate detects betrayal and the heart quickens... a Renaissance man like Randy Caparoso knows when the bottle is corked. A respected sommelier, restaurateur, wine judge, and journalist. I’m especially pleased to have his permission in featuring an article he wrote about the service he received. It swirls nicely with our blog purpose.
I have the pleasure of sharing...
When Service is Spelled StupidWe knew things would get rough early in 2009 when we read about the poor slobs on Wall Street taking 50% cuts in their million dollar bonuses. Which meant the working stiffs on Main Street making $50 to $150 grand a year – no matter how you slice it, the real bread and butter of our industry – would be the ones to actually eat it.
Here at Sommelier Journal, it made sense for us to weave the old fashioned concept of service into our 2009 editorial calendar. Why? Because in times of recession, improving service is not just the most effective way of differentiating ourselves from competition, it is also the cheapest: all it takes is an attitude adjustment.
Adjusting attitude, however, is also the hard part. In the fall of 2009, a piece called 100 Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do blogged in the New York Times elicited some 10,000 heart-felt consumer responses?
(also featured on our blog of 27 Dec 09, http://ptsaldari.posterous.com/burnt-toast-for-anyone-who-serves-even-water) For many restaurants, the response was: duck soup. Sure, our staffs know they aren’t supposed to stack plates at the table, and run over guests as they go charging through the room. We teach that everyday. Why, then, are the details so hard to execute, even in our most successful restaurants? It’s that attitude thing; a culture, basically, of not giving a damn.
True story: last summer I found myself with a free night in Portland, and so I researched the hottest new restaurants. I find one, and call for the only opening (5 PM reservations at the chef’s counter). Shown to my stool, I peruse the wine list and find a delicious sounding red Burgundy for a relatively good price of $80. I’m practically clapping with anticipation as the waiter presents, opens and pours, but horror of horrors…
the bottle is corked!A few minutes after politely sending back the bottle, I start to feel the fear and trepidation I’m sure every guest must experience when a managerial looking person approaches, wine list in hand. She’s looks nice, the way Glenn Close did in the beginning of That Movie, and she regrets to inform:
“Sir, we’ll need to ask you to order a different wine because we tasted the bottle you sent back, and we feel that there’s nothing wrong with it.”Of course, this has happened to me before. With my slack jaw, brown skin and bad hair, I know I look more like a trouble maker than a wine "expert" to restaurant managers. But unlike 99% of restaurant managers, I can tell a corked wine from a side of a barn... and so, overcoming my non-confrontational instincts, I flashed my business cards, explained who I am and what I do for a living, and demanded that second bottle: I really, really wanted to enjoy that $80 bottle of Burgundy.
“O-kaay,” comes the managerial person’s reply, and cutting to a fairly happy ending: the second bottle turns out to be perfectly delicious (full of wild cherry and dancing girls tossing fresh flowers). I poured a generous portion for the manager to taste in the back, and she came back a few minutes later to say,
“yes, you were right!” Although not with (duly noted) an actual apology, much less something in exchange for all my trouble, nor for giving up nearly a fifth of my bottle to magnanimously make a point (I can dream can't I?).
Point being: yes, we should teach our managers and staffs what a corked wine is, and maybe some humility and grace as well; but that’s not the issue. We should be teaching ourselves, by looking at the real source of those nasty attitudes seeping through our windows and damaging our guests’ psyches. Don’t look at the bad hats you may have mistakenly hired – look at your policies, or the hurdles you may have set up in your own standards and procedures that discourage your staff from providing the kind of caring, stress-free environment every guest undoubtedly prefers.
A longtime chef/friend recently opened a place of his own in Denver: his first, and a well capitalized labor of love; his dishes, exquisite meditations on fifteen years of culinary travels, from Hong Kong to New York. Within a month, the restaurant was creamed in the local major daily. The offense? One guest (unfortunately, the anonymous critic) who had walked in and asked the bartender for change to feed the parking meter: he was given the thumb, and told to go next door for his change.
Another true tale of woe: across the street from that same friend’s place, a charming sidewalk French brasserie, where I recently brought a party of five. First-thing, I order $265 worth of wine; including two bottles of $65 grand cru Beaujolais. Our waiter brings smallish, tulip shaped wine glasses to the table for our Beaujolais, prompting me to politely request large Burgundy glasses instead.
I am told:
“I’m sorry, sir, but our Burgundy glasses are reserved only for bottles with a minimum price of $75.” Of course, I respond logically:
“We just finished a $135 bottle of Champagne, and now we’re drinking two bottles of Beaujolais worth $130… surely, there is room for some common sense here.” Alas, there was none, even after our waiter did us the favor of conferring with his manager on duty. What could we do – walk out as the entrées hit the table? We drank our Beaujolais in those stubby tulips.
Oh, I have been through This Movie, too: five years earlier, in fact, in a tony South Beach restaurant decked out in oversized Buddhas and grass growing on the wall; where a wine professional/friend and I were thrown out after ordering a $150 Champagne, and about the same sum in multiple appetizers. Our crime? We didn’t order entrées, as required by house policy.
It is not so much the stupidity to which guests are subjected on a daily basis, but the culture that invariably grows out of this approach: asking our guests not what we can do for them, but rather what they can do for us – to help us run our restaurants with more efficiency and cost effectiveness. A little less stress, a lot less bother. This odd reversal of roles is not just in many of our manuals, it is often on our menus (no substitutions… no split dishes!), our wine lists (if you need to ask about any of these wines, you don’t belong…), and our pricing (if you’d like a glass of something not found in every supermarket in the land, that will be $16 please…).
Needless to say, most of us get what we deserve: waiters who place following orders above taking orders sensibly, bartenders with quick-draw thumbs, and managers who assume the worst in guests, judging them wrong long past the point where right or wrong matter.
If here, in 2010, you find yourself still suffering, and wondering when you’ll get yours: maybe it’s time to check yourself, and work harder to redefine what it is you’re calling service.
Posted by Randy Caparoso on March 26, 2010, (originally published in Sommelier Journal (Dec. 2009) as Bottom Line column called Gotta Serve Somebody:
About Randy Caparoso: "I fought against the bottle," as Leonard Cohen wrote, "but I had to do it drunk"... specializing in wine as a restaurateur, retailer, wine judge, journalist, frequent flyer and mental traveler. But to me, wine is a food like a rose is a rose. So why all the fuss? Wine and food matchin g is a lot easier than you might think it is, but it helps to base it on some basic principles, which I've spent a career (30+ years) doing.
Currently: Bottom Line Editor, Sommelier Journal. Awards: Sante's Wine & Food Professional of the Year (1998); Restaurant Wine's Wine Marketer of the Year (1992 & 1999); Academy of Wine Communications (commendation) for Excellence in Wine Writing and Encouragement of Higher Industry Standards; Electoral College Member, Vintners Hall of Fame at the Culinary Institute of America, Greystone.
An Extra Wine Bonus Feature: An intriguing photo from 1955 showing the matre'd of Londonderry House, London, checks bottles of fine wines chosen for the `Golden Banquet' talking place. 88 wealthy businessmen paid $250 a head for the privilege of eating shrimp soup, pate de foie gras and chicken breats in aspic. Among the wines on offer were an 1989 champagne, a 1923 Claret and a 1792 sherry. $20,000 was raised for charity. (Photo by Harry Kerr/BIPs/Getty Images)
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